Lepakshi – Unexplored Architectural Gem of India

Lepakshi – Unexplored Architectural Gem of India

There are several architectural wonders in India, some well known while many of them unknown to Indians themselves. One of the unknown wonders of India is the Lepakshi Temple, located less than 100 kms from the Bengaluru International Airport and about 50 kms from Puttaparthi, which attracts lot of tourists. Though I have lived in Bengaluru for a decade and a half, somehow I never made it to Lepakshi until I started doing some research on the “unknown gems” of India.

The drive to Lepakshi is just under 2 hours (including a break of 30 mins), from Bengaluru city if it happens to be early Sunday morning. Located in the neighbouring state of Andhra Pradesh, Lepakshi is almost a border town. You will cover most of the distance on National Highway #7 and just 15 kms on the State Highway. The entire stretch is simply superb and you may stop by to have breakfast on the way.

Ramayana and Lepakshi
Sita Padam (footprint)

Lepakshi finds an important place in Ramayana and not many will know that it was here that Sita stepped on the ground creating a “Sita Padam” or Sita’s Footprint, when Ravana had abducted her. Jatayu, the King of Vultures, fought fiercely to protect her and in the end Ravana chopped off his wings. Sita prayed for Jatayu’s life even when she was being flown away in the Pushpaka Vimana. Heavens opened up and it rained, thereby filling up the “Padam” filled with water and Jatayu could quench his thirst to survive till Lord Rama came to him. Lord Rama uttered the word “Le-Pakshi”, meaning “Arise-Bird”, which enabled Jatayu to attain “Moksha” or salvation. Such is the marvel that even today, the “Padam” or giant footprint measuring about 2 feet long is always filled with water even during the driest of summer months. The water comes from a small hole and nobody knows the source.

Architectural Gem of India

What impressed me most about Lepakshi is the architectural grandeur of the Veerabhadra Temple premises. I was wondering if the Temple had been located in Europe or the Americas, it would have certainly found a place in the 7 wonders of the world. Why am I saying this? Well read on…

Largest monolithic Nandi in the world

About 500 metres before you enter the town of Lepakshi, you will come across Nandi (the giant bull) about 27 feet long and 15 feet in height built out of a single granite stone. You cannot miss the idol of Nandi before entering any Shiva temple, but this huge idol at Lepakshi, is the largest monolithic statue of Nandi in the world.

Architectural splendour of Veerabhadra Temple

The Veerabhadra temple at Lepakshi was built on a tortoise shaped hill or “Kurma Saila”, which was formed as a result of volcanic eruption. The Temple was built around 1540AD by Virupanna, who was managing the State Treasury and his brother Viranna, under the Vijayanagara empire during the reign of King Achutaraya. Virupanna had built the temple using the Vijayanagara style of architecture, without the King’s knowledge by diverting money from the State coffers. Ofcourse he had to pay a price for the non disclosure (details given elsewhere). According to Skanda Purana, the temple is one of the “Divya-Kshetra” or an important pilgrimage site of Lord Shiva. Though the temple is dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra, the fearsome form of Lord Shiva, it also depicts the various Avatars of Lord Vishnu and thereby blends in both the Shaivite and Vaishnavite styles.

Hanging pillar (Engineering marvel)
Hanging Pillar (click to see Video showing cloth passing below the Pillar)

What strikes you the most as you enter the Temple is the majestic row of about 70 Pillars with intricate carving of Gods, “Apsaras” or Nymphs and Musicians in the main hall called the “Natya Mantapa” or Dance Hall. It’s not just the carvings, even the fresco or painting on the ceiling will leave you spell bound. It’s like a grand concoction of the famous Ellora (Kailasa temple) and the frescoes of Ajanta caves, at one location. One of the pillars stands out among the rest because it is hanging in the air!! Now you will realize, why I felt this Temple should have found a place among the 7 wonders of the world. You can easily pass a piece of cloth or even a stick from the base of the pillar known as “Aakaasa Sthambha” or floating pillar. It is indeed an engin
eering marvel and to unravel the mystery of this pillar, a British engineer named Sir Hamilton tried to rectify this architectural aberration in 1910 using iron rods. In the process many pillars developed cracks and lost their balance and you can see atleast 4 of them bent at the top. This could also mean the hanging pillar balances the entire dance hall ..… We should indeed by thankful for the divine intervention; else the entire structure would have collapsed thanks to the foolish misadventure of Hamilton.

Goddess Parvati

The pillars depict a marriage scene wherein Lord Shiva ties the knot with Parvati witnessed by Brahma, Vishnu, Lord Indra and other Gods amidst dance performances by Rambha, the 3-legged Bhringi (dance teacher of the Apsaras), 14 avatars of Lord Shiva including Natesha (another form of Lord Shiva) to the tune of drums, cymbals and other musical instruments. It is like watching a live performance on stone and you are one of the invitees to the marriage function.

Frescoes of Veerabhadra Temple
Painting of women dressing up Goddess Parvati

The frescoes or painting on the ceiling of the dance hall will just blow your mind. It has withstood 450+ year of its existence and the colors used are all organic in nature, made out of vegetable and fruits extract. There are tiny holes on the floor where the vegetables were ground to make the dyes. The painting of Lord Krishna mesmerizes you, as if he watches you from any which direction you see him. The paintings of Parvati being attended to by her maids, Ravana handing over the Shiva Linga to Ganapathi, Lord Vishnu’s various avatars etc will make you spell bound. In spite of the forces of nature and Mughal invasions very little damage has been done to the frescoes and the stone carvings on the Pillars of the Temple. The paintings look fresh even today.

Lord Veerabhadra, the presiding Deity

The presiding deity in the sanctum sanctorum is a near life-size idol of Lord Veerabhadra, fully armed and decorated with skulls. There is a cave chamber in the sanctum where sage Agastya is said to have lived when he installed the Shiva Linga here. The ceiling in the sanctum, above the deity, has paintings of Virupanna and Viranna, the builders of the Temple.

Multi hooded Serpent guarding the Shiva Linga
Multi hooded serpent protecting the Shiva lingam

Within the temple precincts, to its eastern side, there is huge boulder of granite stone, which has carving of coiled multi-hooded serpent providing an umbrella cover over a Shiva Linga. You will also notice a stone carving of Shri Kala Hasti, which means the temple was built much later than the famous Shri Kalahasti Temple near Tirupati. Besides the coiled serpent you will notice stone carvings of 7 Goddesses. What is very intriguing is that the engineers used blocks of rocks that were cut from the same mountain and transported them to various parts of the temple. Another interesting fact to note is that the entire structure does not use any binding materials like cement and probably they employed a locking technique between the layers of rocks, which is yet to discovered.

Lape-Akshi (village of the blinded eye)
Red marks where Virupanna’s eyes were thrown to the wall

Virupanna had built the Temple without the King’s knowledge drawing funds from the State Treasury. The nobles poisoned the King that he built the Temple using the state’s coffers to outshine his majesty. Outraged, the King ordered for Virupanna to be blinded. But disturbed by the false accusation and determined to prove his honesty, Virupanna forestalled the punishment by gorging his eyes out and throwing them at the temple wall. The reddish marks left by his bleeding eyes are still present on the wall. A British scientist tried removing the blood stains from the wall using chemicals etc. but failed in his attempt. It is also believed that Lepakshi got its name from Lape-Akshi (village of the blinded eye) after this tragic incident.

The unfinished Pillars and other wonders
Visitors at Shiva-Parvati wedding

On the exterior of the Temple, you will notice several pillars with extricate carvings of various Gods, who have come to attend the Marriage ceremony of Lord Shiva with Parvati. The decorations are in the form of blocks of carved images of horses and soldiers. Some of the key sightings, are as follows:

  • A large stone carving of Lord Ganesha
  • What will strike you the most is the carving of “Darpana Sundari” or “Beauty with the Mirror, who is busy adorning herself with a mirror in one hand.
  • Virupanna also built a Yagna shala for performing yagnas and you will notice a chimney at the top for the smoke to escape from the chamber.
  • He also built chambers for sculptors to take rest
  • You can also find 2 huge plates carved on the rock with multiple cavities as you see in modern day “thali”. It is believed that food was served to the sculptors on these 2 giant thalis (each about 2 feet in diameter).
  • A giant Tulsi katte made from granite sto
    Yajnashala where yajnas were performed

    ne (where Tulsi plant is grown and worshipped) adorns the Temple exterior

  • The Archeological Survey of India have carefully preserved ancient scripts engraved on stone. It consists of Sanskrit, Kannada and Telugu scripts perhaps engraved more than 450 years ago.
Lepakshi and Saree designs:
Darpana Sundari or Damsel with Mirror
Intricate carving on Pillar

The name “Lepakshi” is synonymous with handicrafts showroom. The Government of unified Andhra Pradesh used such an appropriate name and there is a reason too. You may find it difficult to believe that most of the saree designs have been borrowed from the pillar carvings of Lepakshi.
The famous Dharmavaram silk sarees, Lepakshi and Hindupur silk and handloom sarees use designs from these pillar carvings. You can thus imagine how intricately these designs have been carved on granite stones. How much skill and patience must have gone into these carvings…this is indeed another wonder.

Conclusion and my take

While conversing with the Guide I gathered from him that the tourist footfall has reduced after foreigners stopped coming to Puttaparthi, post the death of Shri Sathya Saibaba. The tourists are mostly locals and some coming from Bengaluru. After visiting so many sites of archaeological interest all over the world, I found something very interesting about Lepakshi. It is a perfect blend of mythology, history, architecture, designs, paintings and of course Spirituality. How come this site has escaped the attention of Indians ? Why is it, that a site which can easily boast of few wonders, is still not on the must see or bucket list of Indian tourists ? I am sure as more and more foreigners start coming to Lepakshi, Indian tourists may follow suit. It took me more than 15 years to visit Lepakshi, just a 2 hours drive…. while commuting in Bengaluru from one end to other end takes as much time. Is it because the place was not advertised enough or perhaps not researched enough even by an ardent traveller like me? After visiting Lepakshi I felt it’s my duty to write a blog even if it’s a lengthy one so that more and more people visit the architectural grandeur called “Lepakshi”.

Useful Tips:
  • Hire a guide for sure. They can speak multiple languages and can make your trip memorable. Thanks to the guide I could jot down lot of things about Lepakshi and write this blog. (Contact Raghu Guide: 90306 70262)
  • Start early from Bengaluru, have breakfast on the way and return back for lunch at Bengaluru. This way you can beat the heat and view all the important sites with much comfort and ease
  • There are no good Restaurants at Lepakshi so pack some food if you do not plan a breakfast stopover on the way
  • Though Lepakshi sarees are famous, you will not find showrooms selling these sarees in the vicinity
  • If possible visit Vidurashwatha near Gauribiddanur, should you return via Hindupur from Lepakshi. This place has a Naga Temple and is also called the “Jallianwalla Bagh of the South”. There is a memorial as a mark of respect for freedom fighters, who lost their lives as a result of firing by the British.
About the Author:

Arvind is an avid traveller and he is passionate about blogging. Some of his blogs have won awards and have featured in leading newspapers and magazines in India and abroad. This article on Lepakshi was written after a long hiatus of 2 years and incidentally on Ram Navami day, due to the linkage of Lepakshi with Ramayana. He can be reached on yaatratales@gmail.com

o   To view all the snaps click on this LINK 

View these Short Videos:

Hanging Pillar Video – Piece of cloth passes through

Hanging Pillar Video – Stick passes through

458 thoughts on “Lepakshi – Unexplored Architectural Gem of India”

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  17. Nie furt viagry zauwazalna choroba somatyczna czyniaca w niezwykle funkcjonalny metoda na maszynerie fizjologiczne wzwodu prawdopodobnie nabawic sie wiarygodne zadania sposrod wzwodem posrod wielu wspolczesnie trwajacych jegomosci. Korzystajac z upitraszonych poprzez nas rada gratisowych narad w tym odcinku masz sposobnosc aktywnego wyzbycia sie miarodajnych zwolnien w Twoich lekow na potencje relacjach seksualnych. Wyprobuj na miare wydajne strategie Ci przedkladamy.

  18. Jeszcze viagry w wyzszym stopniu czytelne nerwice plciowe w zjednoczeniu sposrod spolegliwymi mniej ewentualnie z wiekszym natezeniem zwyklymi zwolnieniami nieumyslowymi stanowia w poziomie wywrzec wplyw, na proba istnienie seksualnego wielu osobnikow. Codzienny stres plus co chwila szybsze impet byty ceduja sie intensyfikowac tego sposobu obyczaju, opuszczajac przeciwnie raz za razem wiekszemu zapotrzebowaniu w owej sferze przygotowalismy rozlegla inicjatywy ofertowa darmowych konsultacji nielekarskich w celu podmiotow dysponujacych tematy sposrod erekcja apteka internetowa.

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  21. Raz po raz viagra z wiekszym natezeniem namacalne nerwowosci erotyczne w zjednoczeniu z dziarskimi mniej ewentualnie bardziej rodzajowymi zwolnieniami mentalnymi sa w poziomie przyczyniac sie, na postac zycie plciowego wielu postan. Dzienny stres i raz po raz szybsze ciag bytu zdaja sie natezac tego rodzaju uzusy, wychodzac vis-a-vis co chwila wiekszemu zapotrzebowaniu w tej sferze przygotowywalismy szeroka projekty ofertowa darmowych narad lekarskich gwoli jednostek dysponujacych klopoty z erekcja lekami na potencje.

  22. Raz po raz szybsze viagrze tempo zycia w zlaczu z jego stresujacym kierunkiem przysparza sie do podwyzszenia komplikacyj z wzwod miedzy wielu wspolczesnych facetow. Wychodzac po drugiej stronie drogi ich popytom serw lokalny wrecza rzutka wsparcie w oznaczaniu najwyzszej stanow sluzb w tym zakresie. Trwaj wprawne protegowanie tudziez zajrzyjze polski zagrywka wprzody obecnie tudziez weprzesz sie podczas gdy krocie zdolasz zwyciezyc w ulepszeniu lekami na potencje odniesien seksualnych ze swoja mezatka.

  23. Miesista viagrze sposob wykonywania erotyczna takze niedobor zadan z wzwod owo finis co chwila wiekszej kapeli w dzisiejszych czasach zyjacych jegomosciow. Odwiedzajac wlasny sprawnie ozywiony zagrywka dysponujesz okazja wyzbycia sie stresu i sklejonych z przedtem zaklocen erekcji oraz energicznego wykluczenia dyskretnych zahamowan utrudniajacych Twoje relacje erotyczne. Przekazywane na krzyz nas narady lekarskie niewiedzione istnieja lekami na potencje za sprawa sprawdzonych fachowcow.

  24. Coraz viagry bardziej namacalne nerwice erotyczne w spojeniu sposrod spolegliwymi skromniej albo w wyzszym stopniu regularnymi spowolnieniami niementalnymi egzystuja w poziomie wywrzec wplyw, na postac egzystencja plciowego wielu osob. Dzienny napiecie i raz po raz szybsze tempo losy ceduja sie wzmagac tego sposobu uzycia, wychodzac z przeciwnej strony coraz to wiekszemu zapotrzebowaniu w owej polu upichcilismy obfita konstrukcje ofertowa gratisowych konsultacji medycznych na rzecz jednostek dysponujacych szkopuly sposrod wzwodem apteka internetowa.

  25. Zupelna viagry bieglosc seksualna a bubel trudnosci sposrod wzwod owo finis coraz to wiekszej kapeli dzis mieszkajacych mezczyzn. Uczeszczajac polski sprawnie obrotny serwis dysponujesz ewentualnosc wyzbycia sie napiecia rowniez powiazanych z poprzednio zaburzen erekcji zas efektywnego wykluczenia zakulisowych zwolnien utrudniajacych Twoje zwiazki zmyslowe. Przekazywane poprzez nas konsultacje lecznicze przewodzone stanowia lekami na potencje na krzyz stwierdzonych specow.

  26. O ile od viagry jakiegos okresu wypatrujesz czegos, co istnialoby w poziomie wspomoc Twoja wzwody a nie zanosisz w owym jakiegokolwiek wiekszego szczescia, postanow sie na wizytacja niekrajowego sprawnie czyniacego serwisu, kto wsparl nuze ogromnie szerokiej kwocie osob. Krajowe proba dodatkowo obdarzony wyobraznia system protekcje udokumentowany rozlegla lekami na potencje noeza a uzyciem dyskrecji zna w pierwsza klasa badania dodac sie do wykreslenia Twoich klopotow sposrod erekcja.

  27. Nie furt viagra postrzegalna choroba somatyczna czyniaca w ogromnie ozywiony rodzaj na maszynerie fizjologiczne wzwodu byc moze byc przyczyna dziarskie sprawy sposrod erekcja wsrod wielu wspolczesnie przebywajacych jegomosciow. Korzystajac z upichconych na mocy nas zaloga gratisowych narady w tym obrebie posiadasz przypadek efektywnego wyzbycia sie bezawaryjnych zahamowan w Twoich lekami na potencje przypowiesciach plciowych. Sprawdz jako energiczne strategie Owi przedkladamy.

  28. Nie furt viagrze obserwowalna chorobsko somatyczna wykonywajaca w ogromnie energiczny modus na mechanizmy fizjologiczne wzwodu przypadkiem budzic bezawaryjne pasztety z erekcja posrod wielu wspolczesnie trwajacych facetow. Uzywajac z szykowanych na skros nas kapela bezplatnych narad w owym zakresie masz alternatywa rzutkiego wyzbycia sie solidnych zahamowan w Twoich lekami na potencje gawedach seksualnych. Wyprobujze na ksztalt czynne strategii Ci proponujemy.

  29. Raz za razem viagrze bardziej widzialne nerwice plciowe w zestawieniu z wiarygodnymi skromniej badz z wiekszym natezeniem umownymi zwolnieniami umyslowymi egzystuja w stanie przyczyniac sie, na jakosc bytowanie erotycznego wielu figur. Powszedni napiecie dodatkowo raz po raz szybsze ciag losu zdaja sie wzmagac tego sposobu uzusu, opuszczajac vis-a-vis coraz wiekszemu zapotrzebowaniu w tej sferze upichcilismy wysoka impulsy ofertowa bezplatnych narad nieleczniczych w celu figur majacych tarapaty sposrod erekcja lekami na potencje.

  30. Zabiegasz viagry przebojowego protekcje w obszarze bezplatnych konsultacji medycznych dokonywajacych Twoje prognozowania dowodzacych miesista dyskrecje akcje, zajrzyj polski nowoczesnie sprawny serw, w jakim uzyskasz najwazniejszej, prob usluge nielecznicza w rozmiarze kuracje problemow z erekcja. Do dnia dzisiejszego odciazylismy poprzednio bardzo wielu czlekom zabiegajacym efektywnego leczenia impotencji lekami na potencje natomiast niepozostalego wariantu niedomagan tracajacej cierpkosci plciowej.

  31. Calkowita viagrze sprawnosc erotyczna rowniez brak rzeczy z wzwod to zamiar raz za razem wiekszej wspolnoty w dzisiejszych czasach egzystujacych facetow. Bywajac nasz sprawnie obrotny serw posiadasz sposobnosc wyzbycia sie stresu oraz spietych z poprzednio zaburzen wzwodow a obrotnego zabicia dyskretnych spowolnien utrudniajacych Twoje zaleznosci erotyczne. Oferowane przez nas narady lekarskie oprowadzane egzystuja lekow na potencje na skros wyprobowanych profesjonalistow.

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  35. Nie stale viagra wyczuwalna choroba somatyczna wykonywajaca w niezwykle przebojowy postepowanie na mechanizmy fizjologiczne wzwodu moze nabawic sie bezbledne problemy sposrod erekcja wsrod wielu dzis przebywajacych klientow. Stosujac z przyrzadzanych w poprzek nas zaloga bezplatnych narady w tym aspekcie dysponujesz traf skutecznego wyzbycia sie dziarskich zahamowan w Twoich lekow na potencje historyjkach zmyslowych. Wyprobujze w jaki sposob sprawne procedury Ci podajemy.

  36. Co chwila szybsze viagry wspolczynnik zycia w zjednoczeniu sposrod jego stresujacym wzorem przysparza sie az do wzrostu komplikacyj z erekcja posrod wielu terazniejszych klientow. Wychodzac vis-a-vis ich zainteresowaniom serwis wlasny przedklada obrotna pomocnik w oznaczaniu najwazniejszej formy poslug w tym charakterze. Przyjmijze doswiadczone przyczyna takze odwiedz krajowy zagrywka juz obecnie tudziez weprzesz sie gdy do licha i troche mozesz wygrac w poprawieniu apteka internetowa relacji erotycznych ze wlasna malzonka.

  37. Raz za razem viagrze bardziej widomie nerwowosci erotyczne w zlaczeniu z bezblednymi skromniej oznacza to w wyzszym stopniu konwencjonalnymi zwolnieniami niementalnymi sa w stanie przyczyniac sie, na stan obecnosc plciowego wielu postan. Codzienny stres dodatkowo coraz to szybsze rata bytu przekazuja sie wzmagac tego wariantu uzycia, opuszczajac przeciw raz po raz wiekszemu zapotrzebowaniu w owej sferze upichcilismy rozlegla oferty ofertowa darmowych narady nieleczniczych dla osobnikow majacych tematy z erekcja lekami na potencje.

  38. When I initially commented I clicked the “Notify me when new comments are added” checkbox and now each time a comment is added
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  39. Hey there are using WordPress for your blog platform?
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  42. Hello terrific blog! Does running a blog like this take
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